A rough guide to buying a decent unicycle

Note: Pictures are from www.unicycling.org and www.unicycling.com.

Here I'll try to list what parts you want on your new unicycle to make sure you get a good one, and the things to avoid like the plague. Stores to get your unis from if you're in Sweden as well as thoughts on choosing the best size are also found below..

What is of most importance:

The normal unicycle is a very simple design without gears, wires, brakes or chains. However, this doesn't mean nothing could go wrong with it, or that any unicycle you get will do.The three main things to take a closer look at is the seat, the hub and the frame, or more precisely the bearing holders attaching the wheel to the frame. The rim is usually one of the things prone to failing on the cheaper unis, especially if the wheel is not kept true. If you find it hard to determine the quality of a rim, just make sure it has standard number of holes/spokes in it. Pedals, cranks and tires are easy to replace as you can get them at any bikeshop. A bad seat is the first thing you will have problems with, and is possibly what makes many unicycles be permanently deposited in a cold garage. Unlike on a bicycle, almost all your weight is on the seat at all times without the possibility to distribute it on a handlebar as well. This more upright position also targets you sitting bone in another way. A decent seat is quite important to make sure your ride keeps being enjoyable rather than a pain in the ass.

What you'll prefer on your new unicycle:

• Wheel:
  Standard number of spokes: 36 or 48 spoked wheel (32 spokes might also be OK). This makes the rim readily replaceable.
• Seat:
  The seat should feel rigid and not flex around to much. It may not be too hard for obvious reasons, and may not have any sharp edges even underneath, as you'll grab hold of it each time you get off. Your fingers should be able to pull up on the front of the seat rather comfortably.
  Brands: Miyata has for a long time been considered the best massproduced seat and features a handle at the front.. Easy to improve with a bicycle tube to create a "airseat". I haven't tried the new Velo seat making big fuss about the Kris Holm signature and being pretty much a copy of the miyata, but it's said to be even better. Some doesn't like the Viscount seat at all, but with it's rigid metal base I find it better than the molded foamseats commonly availible on cheap unis. The bumpers can't take very much abuse, though. Other seats I've heard OK rewievs on are the DM and Schwinn.
• Frame:
  You want main cap/Split bearing holders. The bearing is secured between two caps being held together with two vertical screws. The upper cap is welded to the frame. Wheel removal is quick and easy with these. The type of frame doesn't really matter for beginners, but unis with a square crown make a few more skills possible, while the smooth rounded forks are nicer to accidentally bump your legs into. Also make sure the seat can be set at the correct height, wich is having your leg almost straight when the pedal is in its lowest position. If buying by mailorder, measure the inseam of your leg and ask the shop if in any doubt. Remember it's easier to cut down a too long seatpost than making a short one longer.

Miyata seat (commonly slimegreen)

Viscount seats

"Main cap" or "split" bearing holders.

BAD things

• Wheel:
  28 spoked wheel. Having the bad jugdement of putting a 28 hole rim on a uni larger than 16" is a sign of overall poor quality and makes it very hard to find a decent replacement rim. Remember a plastic wheel is only suitable for small children, and not even for them if they want to be able to hop around (and they probably will if they find out it's possible). Be careful if the plastic turns lighter in some areas, it's bad sign of stress.
• Seat:
  The seat is clamped to a straight pipe, instead of screwed to a T-shaped seatpost or using a standard bicycle rail.
  Sharp things under the seat. You will want to hold it here. (the savage seat will even cut you and make you bleed!)
• Frame:
  "Lolipop" bearingholders. Bearings are pushed into metal containers, wich are in turn inserted in the bottom of the fork. Secured with screws going parallel to the axle through only one side of the tubing. As always, there's exceptions; the Pashley "Muni" has better designed lolipop bearing holders and does not have these issues, but makes wheel removal a bit more fuzz than with the main cap holders pictured above. The screws go all the way through the tubing, in the direction of travel, and are secured with nuts. (By the way, despite its name the Pashley "muni" is probably not what you want for really serious muniing (off-road riding), but it is a good uni otherwise and handles grass and gravel better than a standard uni.)

Savage seat. Ouch!

Left: Lolipop bearing holders. The bad version has screws that go only through one side of the tube. This can, or rather will make the tubing crack up after a while. If you have one of these, be careful not to overtighten the screws. Can be upgraded with washers curved along the tubing, distributing the pressure along the tube.

Choosing the right size

Wheelsize: Generally, smaller wheels are for shorter riders and vice versa, but it's not really that simple. A small wheel is very slow and thus pretty darn useless for riding any distance on, but it is very agile and responsive wich makes it ideal for doing tricks and performing, they are also considered easier to learn on. A bigger wheel is faster, making it possible to actually get somwhere without looking quite as much as a windup toy on loads of speed (the drug). Common wheelsizes are 20" and 24" but there are 36" and even bigger wheels out there as well. The 16" is only suitable for very short persons and the 26" is a little bit too big to learn on comfortably (but of course you can, especially if you're not on your own.). If you're tall, or maybe just not short, I'd say go for a 24" as I find the 20" being annoyingly small. If you get badly bitten by the unicyclebug and really want to do a lot of tricks, you could get a smaller one then, but before that it's really nice to be able to ride to the store and also overtaking walking pedestrians with ease along the way (yes, the smallest ones are almost too slow for that!). Remember this is my opinions rather than established truth, especially since I'm tall and not at all focusing on doing tricks.

Going for speed: If you are already a good rider, you might have other preferences. Perhaps you want to have a uni that is more useful in the way a bike is when it comes to transportation. Then you'll absolutely need a bigger wheel. I'd say 28" at least, wich should still be rather unexpensive since it uses a standard size wheel. But what really makes the difference is riding something like the spectacular 36" Coker, the fastest massproduced unicycle you can get, wich is still not far too big for handling slopes if you are fit. If you get to try it, I bet you'll love it. There are even bigger unicycles out there, but they'll probably cost you quite a bit more, and force you to walk up the inclines. Another, not really recommended way to speed up your riding a little bit is to get shorter cranks. This won't make a commuter unicycle as it will only enable you to pedal a little faster without having your feet thrown off the pedals if your technique is good, and it probably makes you look silly in the process as well.

Buying a unicycle in Sweden

Good, so you now have a basic idea of what to avoid to get yourself or another fortunate person a decent uni, but just where can you get it? Certainly not at your local grocery store. The unicycles sold at regular bikeshops are often junk unworthy of having your beautiful bottom placed on them, but as always, there are exceptions. I think it's good to support our swedish stores where you can really see and try before you buy, but you're not limited to those. Importing could sometimes be a cheaper option or could get you that very special uni not availible elsewhere. I suggest you check all of the following:

Name	Location	Description
Unicycle.se	STHLM Saltsjöbaden	Biggest selection in Sweden as they cooperate with unicycle.com. Small, high or huge unis including the fast 36" Coker. Mailorder and store. Can probably bring in specials from unicycle.com if you give them some time.
Fler Bollar I Luften	STHLM S:t Eriksplan	Juggling store. Not quite as much to choose from, and has been a bit on the expensive side, but they only get better and better! Mailorder is possible if you can't drop by.
Unicycle.com	USA	Oh, what a place. Every unicycle imaginable. Just remember the long shipping and taxes (swe: tull 17-25%) pumps up the prices a little bit.
Unicycle.co.uk	England	Cooperates with Unicycle.com. Cheaper shipping than above, and the tax is included. One of the easiest options for importing.